SkyShed Construction

Page 2 of 3

The Foundation

Due to local zoning requirements, structures larger than 8'x8' require proper footings/foundation. As a result, the floor/deck framing as well as the foundation had to be reworked. The Skyshed plans wouldn't meet code. This was expected, as the observatory was relatively large at 10'x14'. Unfortunately a number of pictures showing the digging of the holes, and pouring of the concrete were lost due to a disk failure.

A concrete footing. Note the anchor:

The 4x4 pressure treated post, plus standoff anchored in place.

Yes, use PT wood for such legs. The rest of the floor framing

need not be PT, if it is off the ground. If you are close to the ground,

please use PT for the framing, or you will run into problems.

The Floor/Deck Framing

Thanks -greatly- to the help from a friend, we assembled a perfectly level, square, 10x14 dimension deck. It is framed with 2x10 boards spaced at 16" on center. My friend knew what he was doing. I didn't. :) Though since those initial days, I have become very comfortable working with such materials and tools.

Even though the decking was some 18" off the ground. I still stained the 2x10 floor framing. Both INSIDE AND OUT for extra protection. If you build close to the ground, please use PT wood Stain before putting the floor down of course...

A view from the other side. Note the garage door railing I scavenged (with permission) from the junk pile of a local garage door installer. Later this is cut up and installed for the roll-off rails.

Wall Framing

I performed all of the wall framing myself. It turned out to be quite easy. It just took some time,and I had to tolerate some really hot summer days. Once framed, I sheathed a few of the walls, then invited a few friends over to finish sheathe the remaining walls and raise them into place. This is -definitely- a task for multiple people. You may be able to do this solo on an 8x8 Skyshed or smaller. Note the Skyshed plans do NOT specify sheathing the walls. I did so to prevent shear (back and forth movement) of the structure, as well as reduce drafts/breezes through the walls during the winter. I definitely suggest sheathing the walls. Your building will be more structurally sound, plus you can put up Typar/Tyvek over it for a moisture barrier. It will cost a little bit more, but go ahead and do it. I used 3/8 CDX sheathing and it was plenty, though 1/4", as I understand, is more often used. Believe me, the walls are VERY strong as they are with 3/8". Build it well, and it will be strong.

The walls are up, sheathed, and covered in Tyvek. Note the windows aren't cut out yet. Maybe a good thing to do before putting up Tyvek ;P The roof is not up yet here either. I covered up with tarp, ran numerous 2/4"s with some CDX sheathing underneath. when it rains, water will get in. But this helps. The 'peak' in the middle is a big plastic flower pot. I put in on a few crossing 2x4's to help with water run-off. Use heavy duty tarp. Not the junky blue stuff I have here. The sun/exposure wears it down right quick and it leaks. Find for a woodpile. Bad for an observatory.

My 2 year old Son inspecting the work. He calls it the 'house'.

Initial Roof and Runner Framing

I build the gable roof ends and later sided them with my brother. I recruited by brother and a friend to raise the roof ends and install the cross beam. Friends are suggested here, as raising the roof pieces is difficult for even 2 people on a Skyshed this size. It is quite heavy.

Once complete, I installed all of the joist hangers and supports myself. I even install the metal roof paneling myself. It was a challenge I can tell you, but it can be done in about one afternoon. Take care to wear protective gloves. Metal roofing is SHARP. My finger found out the hard way (yes I had gloves, but even still it got me)

The gable ends and 2x10 cross beam are up. The roof-runner extension is also in place, but not yet stained. The extension plus track had to be installed prior to the roof, as you will see in the roll-off mechanism picture on the next page. The roof as a whole rides on this track.. made up of strong steel galvanized garage door track/rail, and garage door wheels/brackets.

View from the other side. It is extremely important to verify that the roof is level, square, and capable of rolling freely with no obstruction (check your clearance EVERYWHERE). Be aware that wood structures will settle somewhat over time. So make sure to compensate. Some have said an extra 1/4" is good. I say 1/2" for extra safety. As you will see later in the roll-off mechanism picture, the garage door wheel brackets I purchased have TWO wheel height seetings. I constructed the roof on its lowest setting. Should by chance the roof settle far greater than expected.. through some notable effort, I should be able to jack the roof up, and move each wheel up a notch. This will raise the roof up another 1/4" to 1/2" or so. Now that it is built, I don't expect to need this, but the small added expense was worth it I think.

Roof cross beam. Note how the beam is mounted to the gable end and diagonally braced to keep square. The plans called for a 2x6 cross beam here, but I used the 2x10 spare I had instead. I suspect the 2x6 would have sufficed, but going up in size will simply make the roof all that stronger. The roof weight gain was rather negligible and doesn't affect movement at all.

The other side. Note how the 2x4 running vertically and supporting up the 2x10 is both nailed into the vertical gable end beam, as well as the horizontal base. A friend suggested this. It worked great, and I suspect should help distribute weight a bit better.

Now, to go back to the roof extension. Note the roof stop. I got this suggestion from a Skyshed yahoo group member. Works like a charm. One wouldn't want the roof flying off the end of the tracks right? The more caution taken, the better.

A few other notes:

The roof beams were nailed in some places where appropriate, but I mostly used stainless steel screws of proper length. The roof MOVES, so I wanted to be totally positive that all connections were super strong and would not loosen over time. I suspect nails may loosen more easily over time.

The walls and the rest of the structure on the other hand were all assembled with nails. They don't move of course.